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J.'S .SAOKETT.

RUFFLING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MAGHINES..

No. 287.174. Patented Oct. 23, 1888.

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(ModeL) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

,J.-S.SAO KETT.

RUFFLING ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

No. 287,174. Patented Oct. 23, 1883.

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NITED STAT S JOSEPH S. SACKETT, OF NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR OFONE- HALF TO JANE HALLITVELL, OF SAME PLACE.

RUFFLING ATTACHMENT FOR SE\NING WiACl-MNES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 287,174, dated October23, 1883. Application filed May 7, isa. (Model.

v To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JosEPH S. SAOKETT, of New Haven, in the county ofNew Haven and State of Connecticut, have invented a new Im; provement inRuffiingAttachments for Sewing- Machines; and I do hereby declare thefollowing', when taken in connection with accompanying drawings and theletters of reference marked thereon, to be a full, clear, and exactdescription of the same, and which said drawings constitute part of thisspecification, and represent, in

Figure 1, a top view; Fig. 2, side and end view of the bar E, showingthe yoke by which the guide is adjustably attached to the bar; Fig. 3,vertical central section through the bar E on line 2 2; Fig. 4, thepawl-and-ratchet mechanism and base-plate detached and enlarged, forconvenient illustration; Fig. 5, side view of the ruffier-lever, showingits engagement with the pawl and ratchet lever; Fig. 6, end view, andFig. 7 under side view, looking up, illustrating the method of attachingthe plate P to the ruffler; Fig. 8, diagram illustrating the scallopingoperation; Fig. 9, the scallop finished; Fig. 10, under side View of theruffler, with the scalloping attachment in broken lines, to illustratethe device for securing the two parts together.

This invention relates .to an improvement in ruffiing attachment forsewing-machines, particularly to that class which are constructed toproduce a ruffle with a scalloped edge. In the usual attachments a guideis applied to the strip to be ruffled, and which operates to turn thestrip to one side out of the direct line or path of the feed-that is, atan angle to the line of stitchesfor a certain number of stitches, andthen turn the strip in the opposite direction. By such presentation ofthe strip to one sidethat is, away from the line ofstitcheseach-successive stitch will enter the fabric at a greaterdistance from the edge than the previous stitch. Then, when the strip isreturned, the position of the stitches will gradually approach the edge,and as the line of stitches is necessarily straight, it follows that theedge of that ruffled portion between the two points'will besubstantially a scalloped shape, as shown in Fig. 8,the broken lines arepresenting the line of stitches.

The object of the invention is to operate the guide directly from theruffler-lever and make the movement of the guide adjustable, whereby agreater or less number of crimps may be laid in each scallop, and. alsoto make the guide readily adjustable, whereby the depth of the scallopmaybe increased or diminished, and also .to make the scallopingattachment easily removable from or attachable to the ruffiing device;and the invention consists in the construction whereby these objects areaccomplished, as more fully hereinafter described, and particularlyrecitedin the claims.

The ruffiing attachment itself may be any of the usual attachments forthis purpose, and in describing this attachment it is only necessary tosay A is the presser-foot; B, the socket by which it is attached to thepresser-foot bar; 0, the long arm of the bell-crank ruffier-lever, whichis connected to the needle-bar; and D, the other arm of the lever, whichoperates the crimping-blade. E is the bar which carries the guide F,through which the strip to be ruffled passes. To this bar anintermittentor step-bystep movement is imparted to take the guide, say, from itsextreme left position, as seen in Fig. 1, to its extreme right position,as indicated in broken lines in that figure. This guide is in the formof a loop, corresponding substantially to the width of the strip to becrimped, and is made adjustable on the bar E, so as to stand at agreater or less distance from the line of stitches, as may -be required.This is best done by means of a yoke, H, through the ends of which thebar E passes, as seen in Fig. 2, and so as to leave a space between theback of the yoke and the bar, through which an arm, I, on the guidepasses; and the yoke fits the bar and the arm so closely as to producesufficient friction to retain the guide at any position to which it maybe set. If the angle of presentation of the F is moved forward throughthe yoke, as indicated in broken lines, Fig. 1, broken lines I) and (1indicating the change of angle; but if the angle is required to be less,then the guide is moved backward through the yoke, the frictionretaining it in either direction. To impart'the step-by-step movement tothe guide from right to left and left to right, the bar E strip isrequired to be greater, then the guide extends across to the oppositeside of the ruffler, and is there constructed with a slot, L, at rightangles to the line of the bar, and beneath this bar is a rotating disk,M, in which is a Stud, 0, standing in the slot L of the bar E; hence asthe disk M is rotated it will correspondingly move the bar E from leftto right and return, as indicated in broken lines, Fig. 1. Rotation isimparted to this disk by means of a lever, N, hung upon apivot, f, onthe plate P, to which the scalloping mechanism is attached, the disk Mhaving its pivot or center of rotation at h on the same plate. (See Fig.4.)

On the pivot h is a toothed ratchet, R, which is engaged with the disk,preferably by means of a stud on the disk entering a hole, 1', in theratchet, as seen in Figs. 3 and 4, so that the disk will be turned withthe ratchet. One arm of the lever N extends upward and over to the arm Dof the crimper-lever, that end being bifurcated to form two prongs, Z m,one standing at each side the arm D of the crimper-lever, as seen inFig. 5, the space between the two prongs being greater than the width.

of the lever, and in one of these prongs, Z, an adjusting-screw, n, isintroduced, so that the space between the two prongs may be contractedor extended, as occasion may require, the said screw standing in thepath of the moving arm D of that lever, and so that as the crimper-armrises it will strike the prong m of thelever and turn it forward to theposition seen in Fig. 4, or, returning, will strike the set-screw n andturn the arm in theopposite direction, as seen in broken lines, Fig. 4.This extent of movement of the lever upon its pivot is thereforeadjusted by the set-screw n. The other arm of the lever N is made ofring shape, and surrounds the ratchet R beneath the disk M, the openingin the ring being considerably larger than the ratchet. Upon the innerside of this ring two pawls, r s, are arrangedone upon each side of theratchet R-the nose of one engaging the teeth in one direction and theother in the opposite direction, as seen in Fig. 4. These pawls areformed at their pivot end with a circular head, t, and upon the inneredge of the ring seats for these heads in corresponding shape areformed. The recesses to form these seats extend a little more than halfaround the head of the pawls, so that when the pawls are dropped intotheir seats they are retained by the surrounding part of the ring, andwithout the introduction of pivots through the heads. Opposite the pawlsa single spring is introduced, having two. arms, a w, bearing,respectively, upon the two pawls. Midway of the length of the spring, inthe inside of the ring part of the lever N, a recess, w, is cut,somewhat more than half a circle, and at that point a partial ring, 3 isformed in the spring, and so that the ring part or circular bend in thespring will drop into the recess w in the lever, and thus secure thespring in its position, the arms extending, respectively, onto the backsof the pawls r 8. Standing in the position seen in Fig.4, with the pawl8 engaged with a tooth of the ratchet, the movement of the lever to theposition indicated in broken lines will cause the pawl s to turn theratchet to the extent of that movement. Then the pawl 1* will engage itstooth, as seen in broken lines, and on the return of the lever willcorrespondingly turn the ratchet; hence each movement of the leverimparts a partial rotation to the ratchet R, and through that to thedisk M, the disk M in its turn imparting a corresponding horizontalmovement to the bar E and the guide F, which it carries, and thus anintermittent movement, step by step, will be imparted to the bar E andthe guide which it carries until its extreme position in one directionbe reached, and then, by like step by step, will be returned to itsopposite extreme.

By making the teeth of the ratchet fine, so that one, two, three, ormore teeth may be taken at each vibration of the lever N, a greater orless extent of movement may be imparted to the bar E at each step-thatis to say, suppose there be eighteen teeth in the ratchet and theadjustment of the set-screw a be such that one tooth only will be takenat each move-v ment, then the guide will take nine steps between its twoextremes. If it be so that the pawl takes three teeth at each movement,then there will be three steps of the guide between the two extremes.The disk M covers the pawls, spring, and

ratchet, and serves to retain them in place.

Different ratchets may be introduced to vary the feed, if desired-thatis, ratchets with varying numbers 'of teeth.

To removably attach the scalloping device to'the ruffler, I constructthe plate or base P with two hook-shaped ears, T T, which pass beneaththe base-plate 3 of the ruflier, as seen in Fig. 6, each side of the arm4, which carries the separator of the ruffier, as seen in Figs. 7 and10. the ruffler is shown, the scalloping attachment in its place inbroken lines. The arm 4 of the ruffler is turned down from the base, soas to leave a space between it and the base. Then between the hookedends of the ears T and the bend of the arm 4 I introduce a key, 5, asseen in Figs. 6 and 7 ,which secures the scalloping attachment to theruffler, and so that it may be removed by simply taking out the key.

To illustrate the operation of the scalloping mechanism I refer to Fig.8. The strip to be ruflled is passed'through the slot in the guide, andthen between the plate and the separator, in the usual manner ofintroducing strips to be rufiled and supposing the guide to be standingat the extreme right, (1 representing the natural line of stitches, thefirst stitch is taken, as, at 6, and there a crimp made. Then the guideis moved one step to the left, turning the stitch to the line 7, andthere the next crimp, 8, will be made. the line 9, the next crimp, 10,will be made; then to the line 11, the next crimp will be made, and soon. As each successive crimp is made and stitch taken the part crimpedwill In Fig. 10 an under side view of Then, the guide turning to projecta greater distance at each crimp from the line of stitches until theextreme left is reached. Then on the return the reverse effeet will beproduced, and the result is a scalloped edge, as seen in Fig. 9.

I make no claim herein to .the peculiar ratchet mechanism which I havedescribed, as that will form the subject of an independent applicationfor Letters Patent; and I wish it understood that these ratchet devicesenter into the invention described in this specification only to theextent that they are made elements of combination with the rufflingmechanism.

WVhile I prefer the yoke H of the bar E as the best meansfor securingand adjusting the guide, the guide may be otherwise adjusted as, forinstance, by a slot in the arm I and setscrew through into the bar.

While I prefer the mechanism described to impart intermittent rotarymovement to the disk M, other mechanism may be employed for thispurpose, it only being essential to this part of my invention that thedisk M shall have an intermittent rotation imparted to it,

whereby a corresponding intermittent recip rocating movement will beimparted to the barE.

I claim L 1. Ina ruffler for sewing-machines, the combination therewithof the horizontal bar E, mechanism, substantially such as described, forimparting to said bar an intermittent or stepby-step movement to theright and left, a guide, F, for carrying the strip to be ruffled, andmechanism, substantially such as described, to adjust said guide on saidbar to a greater or less distance from the needle, and whereby the angleof presentation of the strip may be varied, substantially as specified.

2. In a ruffler for sewing-machines, the combination therewith of thehorizontal bar E, mechanism,substantially such as described,forimparting to said bar an intermittent or stepby-step movement to theright and left, the loop shaped guide F, constructed with an arm, I, theyoke H, arranged to slide longitudinally on said bar, with an openingthrough said yoke at right angles to said bar, and through which openingthe arm I of the guide extends, and whereby said guide is madeadjustable both on the bar and at right angles thereto, substantially asdescribed.

3. I11 a ruffling attachment for sewing-Inachines, the combination ofthe horizontal sliding bar E, constructed witha right-angular slot, L,the guide F, the disk M, carrying the stud e in said slot L, the ratchetR, in connection with said disk, the lever N, one arm carrying pawls rs, to engage said ratchet, the other arm in connection with thevibrating arm of the ruffler, substantially as described.

4. In a ruffling attachment for sewing-machines, the combination of thehorizontal sliding bar E, constructed with a right-angular slot, L, theguide F, the disk M, carrying the stud e in said slot L, the ratchet Rin connection with said disk, the lever N, one arm carrying pawls r s,to engage said ratchet, the other arm bifurcated, forming two prongs,Zm, between which the arm D of the ruffler-lever will play, and anadjusting-screw, a, substantially as and for the purpose described.

5. In a ruffling attachment for sewing-machines, the combination of aguide to conduct the strip to be ruffled, a pawl and ratchet arranged toimpart a right and left intermittent .movement to said guide, avibrating lever,

one arm of which carries said pawl, the other arm being in connectionwith the ruffling mechanism, whereby a vibratory movement is imparted tosaid lever, and said lever pro- Vided with a set-screw, whereby theextent of vibration of said lever, and consequent throw of the pawl, maybe varied or adjusted, sub stantially as described.

6. In a ruffling attachment for sewing-machines, the combinationtherewith of the plate P,: carrying the guide F, and the mechanism,substantially such as described, for imparting a right and leftstep-by-step movement to said guide, the said plate constructed withhookshaped ears 'I T, arranged to stand each side the separator-arm 4and beneath the baseplate 3 of the ruffler, and the key 5, to interlocksaid plate with the base-plate by means of said hooks 'I and arm 4,substantially as described.

Jos. 0. Emma, J. H. SHUMWAY.

